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Japan Index A
Year in Tokyo
As soon as I'd finished working for J.P.Morgan
in London I went to Tokyo. Yamaguchi-san from Waseda University
had been in regular contact with me from the moment I was accepted
onto the course. When I arrived he came and picked me up from
the Airport meeting terminal (which is in Tokyo itself, no where
near the airport which is in fact in Narita). He then took me
to my dorm. Despite being on the small side (understatement),
it was great. The dorm was in central Tokyo, in Nishi-Waseda which
was only 3 minutes walk to university. The dorm was also only
2 stops away by subway from the entertainment district of Shinjuku.
Shinjuku station is said to be the busiest station of the world,
with 2 million passengers using it everyday. If you don't like
crowds, this is not the place for you. But I love city life, with
the choice it brings. It's a place that is so full life, energy
and diversity. Shinjuku has a youngish crowd and just up the road
in Shinjuku-2-chome, is where most of the gay bars are. So really
I couldn't have asked for a more convenient location.
Classes started at 9:40, so I was able to get at
around 9am, for a whole year. Bliss. Mind you, it became a habit
that is proving hard to break. I studied Japanese (language), the
Japanese economy and financial system and then did some literature
in Japanese. The then prime minister, Hashimoto, was pushing his
"Big Bang" deregulation then, and so it was a great time to be in
Japan studying their financial system. One of our economics lecturers
was an American. It was good to get to see an American perspective
on the issues.
The courses I did there didn't contribute to my
studies in London, so I didn't feel any pressure at all - which
meant I was able to really enjoy the course, and learn loads. I
don't see the point in going abroad if you're going to spend your
whole time in a library, and so I didn't. I went a lot of the time.
I had so much fun. Right at the beginning I went out to a bar, and
met this guy called Rui. He introduced me to a couple of his friends
and we all got on. I was so lucky to have met him. He can speak
English, but is really shy - so we only ever spoke in Japanese,
which is the best way to learn a language.
In the first week when I was there, Gianna and I met Ayako, who
we knew from London. She used to be Stuart's girlfriend, and lived
in London, but was she was in Tokyo on holiday. So we went out to
dinner with her, and Ama, her best friend. Ama is such a great guy
- he doesn't speak any English either, so we had to speak Japanese
with him too. But since we really got on, I really wanted to make
the effort and speak. At the beginning of my stay, speaking Japanese
felt like a whole big effort, and I was always very self-conscious,
so having friends with whom I wanted to speak was exactly what I
needed. I guess I saw him every week or so for most for most of
my stay. Ama hadn't had any foreigners as friends before he met
Gianna & me, so he also wanted to know lots from us, and was often
full of questions at the beginning.
The great thing that I found about making Japanese
friends, is that once you've become proper friends, you can just
go out and have fun. At the beginning you do lots of sight-seeing
and try to understand things, but once you've been there for a while,
it's good to just go out and do normal things, and that is much
easier when you're with someone who lives there. Going to their
local restaurant and bar, which for them might seem boring, is actually
one of the most fun things for me. I loved just "vegging-out" at
home with a few drinks and a few friends. When I was able to do
that with Japanese friends, I felt that Tokyo had become my home,
rather than just some place I happened to be staying.
For the first few months I had an American neighbour called Steve,
who was studying law, and is now a lawyer. He was a lot of fun.
He doesn't know how to dress, wears funny hats, but is such an excellent
chap. He's really sharp, and intelligent but really down to earth
and VERY funny. He always makes everyone laugh. I remember we used
to joke at the differences in our English, and he used to sing songs
and play the guitar. He plays ultimate frisbee, which is apparently
a team sport which is popular in the States. Now I didn't know that,
and when he told be he went to play frisbee in the park, I assumed
he went and played on his own, or maybe with one other person. I
thought it was so weird that he would do that at his age. I couldn't
believe it when he told me it was a team sport. Well, I still think
it's a funny team-sport, but much better than throwing one around
on your own!
OK OK, so I made friends and went to university, but what was it
like? I can't give you a short answer, because it's difficult trying
to verbalise my thoughts. I guess it's really a gut feeling. It
just feels good when I'm in Japan. For a start, I love the excitement
and pace of life of Tokyo. Japan is also a very convenient country
in which to live. There is a huge amount of attention to detail,
and everything is thought through. There are vending machines which
sell drinks, cigarettes (no, I don't smoke), beer and ice-cream
in the street. Everywhere. On my 3 min walk to university I'd walk
past 12 vending machines. 12! And that would be totally normal.
You never need to be thirsty in Japan. Never. The number of times
when I walk back home from the station here in London, and think
I'd like a drink. I have to say to myself that I can have one just
as soon as I get back. But that's not the point. In Japan I'd just
pop my yen in the machine and out would come a hot canned tea. Lovely.
In London, I have to wait till I get home, then put the kettle on,
wait, find the sugar, mix, wait, and then I can drink it. By which
time I've already warmed up. No, warm sweet (or not sweet, you have
the choice) tea (or coffee) in a can in a vending machine is perfect
for when you're outside.
Sure, not having hot canned tea and coffee is not
such a big deal, but everything in Japan seems to have that level
of convenience. Take convenience-stores (24 hours store). We hardly
have any in London. I had 3 I could walk to in a couple of minutes.
Selling food, drinks, fruit, stationary and magazines all day, all
night. Very useful. And all the shop doors would open automatically.
Why doesn't that happen here on a normal high-street? Go to a newsagent,
and you have to open the door yourself. Fine, except of course if
you've been shopping - which, let's face it, you're likely to be
doing when you're ACTUALLY IN A SHOP. No, for some reasons, our
shops are actually not designed for people to shop in. People go
on and on about the death of the high street. Well, I say: Let them
die. If they fail to provide for us, why should they survive. It
is possible to design a shop for shoppers, and you don't need more
space either. There is nearly always a double-door, one half of
which doesn't open because it's locked. You know what I mean don't
you? Why have a double door, if one's going to be locked. Better
to have one automatic sliding door. Why, for instance, is there
a step to get into shops. Haven't they noticed there's no need for
them? A shop floor can be at the same level as street level. There's
not a single reason for there to be step. Do people in prams appreciate
the step? How about wheel chairs? No, they don't. They hate them.
And the rest of us? Well, we sure as hell don't need them either.
As I was saying, let them go bustE
And everything works properly in Japan: the trains,
the subways, and the lifts. All on time, all of the time. And people
too: very reliable. Delegating isn't a problem because people meet
deadlines. It really removes so much of the stress from life. Things
work, people do what they say they will do: everyone is happy. It
makes such a difference. It really does. People are helpful too.
They go out of their way to help others. You don't need to ask,
people offer. Oh, and Japan is SO safe. When I was in Sapporo, an
old lady gave me her bank card and told me her pin-code, and asked
me to withdraw some money for her because she had forgotten her
glasses and couldn't read the ATM. A total stranger asked me, a
foreigner to withdraw some money. You'd have to be mad to do that.
Or live in Japan. Sure, I was in the outer suburbs of a minor city
then, but still.
I love Japanese food too, and it's so healthy. So going back to
what I liked: The people, the lack of stress because of the efficiency
of everything and everyone, the safety, and on top of all of that,
it's a really fun place. There's so much to do, so much choice.
Really, what else is important? What do we worry about in our lives?
About our health, about stress, and safety. What do we want? To
have fun, to have choice, to enjoy life. Well, Japan in mind comes
closest to satisfying that. The big exception is if you like space
- because there isn't an awful lot of itEWhich I suppose is
why Japanese products are the world leaders in miniaturisation.
It was such a fun way to improve my language skills.
I look back at that year and think how luck I am to have been able
to go and do what I did. It didn't take long for me to feel that
Tokyo was my home.
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